Just off the Trans Canadian Highway, voted one of the most scenic drives in the world, you'll find Canmore. It was also on this road we got our first bear sighting! A first glimpse at one of the rockies glacial blue lakes will blow you away and make you feel like you are stepping into a postcard. The striking turquoise colour almost appears unnatural, but it's all thanks to the glaciers above and the sun, we won't bore you with the geological processes, if you want to find out you can look that up yourself. In the winter, they'll freeze over and create a magical wonderland where you can go ice skating, but the blue tones in the summer are something else. Partnered with lush green forest and snowcapped mountains, you will be left in awe. Check out our full roadtrip guide here.
So you've arrived in Kananaskis Country, situated in the front range of the Canadian Rockies. A great place to stay with access to Banff NP and Jasper NP but without the huge crowds, is Canmore. The town of Canmore is committed to reconciling the past and building better relationships with the local first nations in the future, including the Stoney Nakoda Nation on which it lies. “Reconciliation is about forging and maintaining respectful relationships. There are no shortcuts." -Justice Murray Sinclair, Truth and Reconciliation Commission. Make sure you support business who support this movement in order to put commitments into action.
Accommodation
Stay at the award winning, Paintbox B&B owned by former Winter Olympians. They wish to be at the forefront of environmental stewardship, 50% of the energy is powered through solar panels on the roof and the remaining 50% is supplied by green renewable energy supplier, alongside this they donate to environmental charities, grow their own produce, including a herb garden and support a multitude of local businesses as their suppliers from food to photography. They have thoroughly thought through their approach to sustainability paving the way for others to follow suit. As former athletes they are passionate about helping up and coming sports men and women, many aspiring Olympians work at the lodge and they also opt to sponsor athletes. Another important factor, they recognise on who's sacred land they are located, Canmore is situated within the Treaty 7 Territory, they hope to honour the tradition and spirit of the area by welcoming you to the traditional lands of the Stoney Nakoda people.
The most notable mountains in Canmore, the 3 sisters, standing tall and in view from almost anywhere in the town. Originally called the 3 nuns, after snowfall left them resembling nuns in white veils, but officially named the 3 sisters, and known as big sister, middle sister and little sister, in the traditional language of the Stoney Nakoda people it is also known as the 3 sisters but the story differs.
Top Hikes in Canmore increasing in difficulty:
Grassi Lakes - easy and family friendly - 2.7 miles - 233m elevation gain - views of waterfalls and turqouise lakes of course its busy
Ha Ling Peak - difficult - 4.5 miles - 764m elevation - popular and busy
Mount Lady Macdonald - difficult - 6.1miles - 1303m elevation gain - busy
Mount Rundle - strenuous - 11.1 miles - 1735m elevation gain - as popular as a strenuous trail gets - best view of Banff Valley
Looking for some more off grid back country camping, research for yourself, if a photo isn't geotagged it's probably on purpose, it is becoming increasingly popular in the hiking community to not pass on exact locations, addresses and directions in order to keep areas pristine and away from the hands of the masses, google earth is a great place to start searching for hidden locations, Andrea Ference, who is mentioned later on is a big advocate of this, and well you might just find some place better than that photo anyway, encouraging greater adventure and exploration.
Time to head further north. A mix of adrenaline, hiking, nature and relaxing is in store. Here's some ideas of what to do.
From here on in you'll want to purchase an annual discovery pass ($140 -2020) for this route it will give you access to 80 destinations including Historic sites and National Parks and will work out cheaper than paying daily at each locations you'll need it for. Use it for Banff National Park, Jasper National Park, Yoho National Park, Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, and Glacier National Park.
White Water Rafting
Get your adrenaline fix and go white water rafting. Just remember, don't turn down a wetsuit, even on a hot day, as you're about to get a little more than splashed by glacial run off. Some companies will have restrictions on minimum age, minimum weight and experience depending on the class of rapids. Rapids change with the season and even day by day. Prices usually range around the $100 per adult. Book ahead of time, at least by a day if not more.
Here's a few suggestions for where to go white water rafting, they obviously all have great views;
Kananaskis River, Kananaskis Country
15 minutes from Canmore
4 hours + (approx 2 hours on the river)
5 years +
With class 2-3 rapids it is great for families and known for being one of the best places to white water raft in the rockies.
Optional river swim
Departs once a day
classed as 'mild' by Chinook Rafting
Horseshoe Canyon, Bow River, Banff National Park
25 minutes from Canmore
4 hours + (approx 2 hours on the river)
12 years +
Calling all true thrill seekers, with big waves and class 3-4 rapids, and a pitstop with optional cliff jumping, medium height or big jump, all of course demonstrated safety by a guide first and proper safety precautions in place
You'll never forget jumping into a glacier fed river or falling in off the raft during a rapid for that matter, don't worry you're taught what to do if this happens
Departs once a day
classed as 'Adventurous' by Chinook Rafting
This is where I found myself, nicely places in adrenaline between these 3 options, you also get to experience true sense of remoteness as you get the most off the beaten track of the 3 options. Also, get your guide to tell you about the famous movies and tv scenes filmed along the canyon, and keep a sharp eye out (when you're not getting splashed) for birdlife, including eagles on the canyon walls.
We would highly recommend 'Canadian Rockies Rafting', rated very highly, with great guides, professional, funny and friendly. Their knowledge of the river, its surrounding and the rapids themselves is second to none. A photographer also follows you around and you can purchase some superb photos to remember your experience, they're really good quality. Don't worry there's not rapids the entire time, though it does start out pretty intense, there is a bit of time to admire your surroundings whilst not getting splashed, but you'll soon find yourself paddling again.
All kit is provided, including the essential helmets, lifejackets and wetsuits, along with a safety briefing, practice, and transport to river on an old school bus. If you need transfer to the base from Banff or Canmore this can also be provided upon request. There's changing rooms at the meeting point and secure storage lockers.
Kicking Horse River, Yoho National Park
just over 1 hour from Canmore
4 hours (approx 2 hours on the water)
12 years +
Can be the rockies most thrilling ride, with 1 -4 + rapids, this is when for some they start to get scary so make sure you're prepared
Optional river swim
Departs twice a day
classed 'Wild' by Chinook Rafting
Alternatively, if you're staying further north towards Jasper National Park try out white water rafting in the Athabasca river or Sunwapta river.
Banff National Park
Peyto Lake, Banff National Park
Many think Lake Louise or Moraine lake are the most popular glacier fed lakes in the rockies but that spot actually falls to Peyto Lake. It is also the most visited and photographed. The lake is best seen from Bow Summit which stands at 2,088 metres and a 3.5mile round trip hike. Bow Summit is the highest point on the drive from Banff to Jasper and is the highest elevation crossed by a public road in Canada.
Lake Louise, Banff National Park
You've probably seen photos of Lake Louise, the Fairmont chateau, glacier backdrop, snow capped mountains, valley sides covered in lush green forest but nothing will prepare you for experiencing it yourself, I once heard it described as pure alpine awe, it definitely is that. There's lots to do and many angles to see it from, take to the lake rowing in the summer or ice skating in the winter or set off hiking there is an accessible path along the waters edge or go for something a bit more challenging for a totally different perspective. At the far end of the lake you'll also find some great rock climbing routes.
A couple hiking ideas from Lake Louise:
Plain of 6 glaciers
Valley of 10 peaks
Moraine Lake, Banff National Park
Only 15 minutes from Lake Louise and just like the others you'll be once again left speechless by the beauty and when you return home you'll be asked if your photos are edited. The answer is of course no. Find Moraine Lake in the valley of the 10 peaks. Enjoy the pure mountain air, and once again set of hiking or rowing, even on a busy day you'll find yourself very much alone on sections and some trails around Moraine. To avoid them completely, get up early and hike up high for sunrise!
Of course there's no shortage of lakes including ones a lot more hidden and in summer the majority provide that glacial blue you'll begin to crave.
Saskatchewan River Crossing
The Saskatchewan River crossing is where the North Saskatchewan, the Howse and the Mistaya rivers meet. The might North Saskatchewan rises in the rockies and runs all the way to Lake Winnipeg 1025miles away in the east. Stop here for basic services and the starting point for tours of the Columbia Icefield.
Parker Ridge
Situated just off the Icefields parkway find Parker Ridge, to take in multilpe mountain ranges and the Saskatchewan Glacier you'll need to increase your elevation, hike 2 hours to the summit.
Banff Hot Springs
After a long day hiking or a day of getting pummelled by rapids white water rafting there's no better place to relax than Banffs Upper Hot Springs.
Stops and Top view points on route:
Mistaya Canyon
Icefields Parkway
Linking Banff National Park with Jasper National Park is highway 93 more commonly known as Icefields Parkway. Passing through a whole host of glaciers as it runs 143 miles and 3 hours without any stops, but who wouldn't want to stop? You'll want to every 2 minutes, and there's no resisting those views, forest river valleys that rise and drop sharply in the mountains. Along with meadows, waterfalls, vibrant blue lakes, and higher snow capped mountains, you'll be stopping at the views by the side of the road for sure! You'll soon realise why its yet another one of the scenic drives on this list voted as one of the world's most spectacular and takes Canada's top spot. It's got my vote that's for sure, and its not just the viewpoints at any point be prepared to stop or slow down for a wildlife encounter, especially bears, just don't get out your vehicle like we saw some people do!
Big Hill and Big Bend
The road clings to the clings to the curve of the mountain gaining elevation, before the famous hairpin turn, known as big ben, that drops into the valley below. This was my favourite view along the Icefields Parkway, it showed the true expanse of the valley.
Bow lake
This lake lines the Icefields parkway and is a perfect place to take a pit stop and admire the views of the lake with the Crowfoot Glacier, Wapta Icefield, Bow Glacier, Crowfoot Mountain and Mount Thompson towering above.
Columbia Icefield - Athabasca Glacier
These glacial fields of ice straddle both Banff and Jasper National Park, and are actually the largest south of the Artic Circle. The ice fields feed famous glaciers such as Athabasca Glacier, the Columbia Glacier, and the Saskatchewan Glacier.
The most accessible glacier in the world is the Athabasca glacier, Jasper National Park. Travel up the glacier on a Ice Explorer or walk up but if you choose the latter option don't even consider it without a professional and equipment, some bloggers will suggest it for those on a budget, there have been deaths, just don't do it. The Ice explorers are an extreme all terrain vehicle specifically designed for glaciers, there isn't very many in the world, 2 of which are equipped with wheelchair accessibility. Depending on the time in the season expect to pay $80-130 per adult, this price now includes the glacial skywalk.
The glacier experience are constantly working with experts to mitigate their effect on the glacier, but know it is important for it to remain accessible to inspire more people to protect not only Athabasca but much much more. It is a fragile place, the glacier is retreating at an alarming rate, it is one of the most visible and visual signs of global warming. There are signs with years on them showing where the glacier once was, and has since retreated from. The continued loss of the glacier will have historic societal, environmental and economic effects that will effect everyone, but no group even more so than the first nations. The Athabasca glacier has been at the forefront of world leading experts in their research on glacial retreat and climate change, as it retreats at an unprecedented pace. So as you stand in wonder, complete reverence be inspired to take action. Top tip; take sunglasses!
Stops and Top view points on route:
Tangle Creek Falls
Sunwapta Falls
Abraham lake
Be sure to stop at, Herbert Lake to see Mount Temple, best at sunrise or sunset
Panther Falls.
Jasper National Park
From Canmore to Jasper National Park it will take you around 2.5 hours, plus of course some allotted time for stopping at viewpoints. Some of the places, mentioned above on the parkway, also fall within the national park.
As mentioned you can get the adrenaline pumping and go rafting through Jasper National Park on the athabasca river or sunwapta. Fancy something a bit calmer go on a float tour.
One place that reappears in photos of the Canadian rockies time and time again is Spirit Island in Jasper National Park. Spirit Island is spiritual to the Stoney Nakoda people. It is surrounded on 3 sides by the same mountain range, which is rare, this is signification as the Stoney Nakoda believe the mountains are a physical representation of their ancestors. It's quite hard to reach so if you want to get up close opt to go on a boat tour of Maligne Lake, and watch the water below turn from emerald to blue.
Cavell meadows and Mount Edith offer some of the best and most popular hikes in the park, but of course a little research will prove there is much more, so whatever, difficulty or length or elevation you're after you'll find something for you.
Look out for elk, deer, big horned sheep, mountain goats, foxes, coyotes, wolves, moose and of course the one animal on most peoples lists, bears.
Other places to consider
Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park
Glaicer National Park
For better knowledge on hiking in the rockies than we could provide check out these 2 hiking bloggers;
JuJu Milay - Jujumil (left) check her out here and on her blog. She takes beautiful photos whilst highlighting the injustices and uneven accessibility black people face in the outdoors. Whilst also advocating for the rights of the indigenous communities in which we hike.
Andrea Ference - (right) Vagabond hearts check her out here and on her blog. You'll envy her proximity to the mountains and her summers backpacking just hours from her home, check her out for kit recommendations, including bear tips and backcountry camping guides.
Socks and Sandals
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