One of a series of upcoming guides on the Galapagos Islands. Why you should pick Floreana island, what to expect and what to do on the island, as part of your trip to this truly special archipelago. A haven of eco tourism, described by far and wide as the ultimate mighty kingdom, the home of modern ecology and ecoventura summarise just how unique the islands are;
'Find a group of islands that are geographically remote and have never been connected to the continents. Place them at the intersection of 7 currents and provide nutrient rich cold and coral sustaining warm water environments. Mix well and enjoy. The only place you'll find with this formula are the unforgettable Galapagos Islands.'
On your way to Floreana by boat look out at the small uninhabited islands on approach, including Gardner where you'll see an array of birds and you might just spot some of the famous blue footed boobies, perched precariously on steep rocky edges. Arrive on the island of Floreana to a very small dock, navigate through the marine iguanas, and watch out for the sea lions sunbathing on the steps. The marine iguanas on Floreana are some of the most colourful of all the islands turning red and green.
The island is home to a population of around 150 people who largely rely on agriculture, the tiny town of Puerto Velasco Ibarra is situated near the dock, if you can even call it a town, most of the time it feels deserted. Therefore, as you can imagine there isn't many options for accommodation, but that's what gives this place a sense of tranquility, no high rise buildings, no large roads and not too many choices; which is great if you are indecisive like us. You feel so isolated from the outside world, a small escape, get back to basics and have nature nearly all to yourself, even though we've been to more geographically isolated destinations this one certainly felt the most isolated. Lonely planet describes it as the Galapagos islands of 40 years ago, a calm tranquil from the action filled islands, no crowds and very few cars. There's a few homestay's on the island, this is where we stayed, most importantly every accommodation on Galapagos appeared to have hammocks.
Guides and Conservation
It is important to note as the Galapagos Islands are both a national park and an UNESCO heritage site certain rules apply, and you and your bag will be checked upon entrance and exit to each island. To explore national parks here you need a naturalist guide- it is the law, even including inhabited islands as the majority of the archipelago is a designated national park. You should think carefully, getting a good guide can heavily influence the quality of your stay for the better. This also encompasses responsible tourism. A local guide will help you soak up as much of the islands as possible and are bursting with knowledge, they also make sure you are looking after the island you explore and keep on top of the many rules and regulations in place. Basically, without a guide you will be severely limited in what you learn and where you can explore.
There are a number of spots on the island open freely for you to wander, but they usually maintain some type of supervision or controls, in order to ensure the protection and conservation of endemic wildlife, flora and fauna.
Animal conservation is particularly important on Floreana as many species were eradicated by various means including fires and invasive species as a result of whalers and sailors in the 19th century, before even Darwin had stepped foot here. Unfortunately, the number of species lost in total equates to the most out of any island in the archipelago, with a further 55 under threat. Some of the threats have been controlled, others remain a risk to native species and the livelihood of families, particularly rats, brought in on sailors ships. Thankfully a long term plan is in place to try find a solution to the problem with the help of many agencies.
Things to do:
Black Sands Beach and Sunset
Visit Playa Negra the black sands beach but watch your step, you'll find the marine iguanas and sealions camouflaged in the sand, a stark contrast to the bright red crabs which stand out. Stay for sunset, it was one of the best from our whole trip through South America, and as many visitors to Floreana come just for the day (even then we didn't really notice an increase in people), our group had it all to ourselves.
Snorkelling
There is a small shop to rent wetsuits, flippers, masks and snorkels on the island then you're all set. Continue round the bay from Playa Negra for a spot of snorkelling and head towards La Loberia Isla with many coves jump in and look out for the turtles. Now, we thought we'd be searching for turtles, and would be lucky to see a few, but they were everywhere, almost immediately. If you're visiting Floreana with a tour company, whether that be a day trip or for your stay on Floreana, or for a matter a fact all islands, don't pick a tour company which promotes touching the animals, whether that be turtles or other wildlife. The naturalist guides are an integral part of protecting the national park, so if you're accompanied by one you're in good hands.
Devils crown located to the north east of the island is an underwater volcano cone and an amazing site for diving or snorkelling, cruises will often stop here but not visit the mainland.
Bird watching
Visit the lagoon at Punta Cormorant, located between 2 lava cones and look out for a number of bird species, including flamingos .
Caves
Visit caves used by pirates and whalers as a refuge, you'll find some of the rocks left in their natural form and some carved to resemble a home or some statues. Today those caves at the base of haven of peace are occupied by some of the galapagos tortoises as a semi natural breeding ground, keep your eyes peeled and you'll likely see some giant tortoises feeding in the highlands. To get here and learn more hire a guide to drive you into the highlands, and tell you all the stories and you'll also find Asilo de la Paz.
Post Box
Make sure you buy a post card before arriving on Floreana, as on the island there is a cool post box for tourists. Now let me explain, this is no ordinary post box, the idea is you bring your post card to the post box addressed to friends or family or even yourself, and in return you search through the other postcards left in the box from around the world. If you find someone who lives close to you back home, then you take it with you and hand deliver it once you're home. It might sound unlikely that you will find someone who lives near you but we both did! The post box can be found in post office bay. This is an amazing part of the experience and one that brings many tourists together across the years.
Food
Try fresh ceviche at one of the handful of restaurants on offer in the tiny town. The idea of raw fish and seafood might not be for you but you have to try it. I myself am not a fan of fish nor raw seafood back at home, but this was so different. The freshness and cocktail of juices, herbs and fish had pleasantly surprised me. You can also get a cooked version to try too, which we both much preferred.
Next up head to Isabela Island find out guide here.
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