Here is our guide to Buenos Aires on a budget. We're both bigger fans of nature, so it takes a lot for a city to win us over, for us Buenos Aires was just one stop of many whilst backpacking through South America, and a good transport hub to continue on, it was a great place to enjoy the hussle and bussle for 5 days but we were keen to get back to the deserts, mountains and beaches. It's certainly worth a visit and an easy place to fly into or out of, but combined it with another location and it's an essential backpacking stop.
We'd been travelling through South America southbound, so had recently hiked several different trails in Ecuador, Peru and Chile, gone climbing in Bolivia, by this point our knees were aching, add to that cycling Death Road, horse riding in Salta our bums were starting to ache too, so what better way to explore the city and add to the aches than jump on a bike tour with BA Bikes.
Accommodation
This was where we finished our tour, so we just extended our stay where the accommodation ended, this happened to at Millhouse Hostel. Theres 2 to choose from in the city, Millhouse Hipo, and Millhouse Avenue. We stayed at Millhouse Hipo. Clean ensuite dorms with about 8 to a room. Both are conveniently located in the city. Costing about £11 per night. Helpful and friendly staff. They are, however, 'party hostels' and parties take place alternate nights at each, despite this they were surprisingly quiet, maybe this was due to the large building and quiet courtyard space, or maybe we just got lucky. We would recommend going out for breakfast rather than staying in the hostel, head to the San Telmo food market or bakeries close by, got a bit more money head to a cafe in Palmero!
Transport
There is public transport if you need it, but the city was voted one of the top 10 most walkable cities in the world, we'd have to agrees it's super easy to get around and free. Buenos Aires is also a great transport hub to continue your travels around South America. The airport, however, is notorious for having long security queues, so plan a bit longer than you usually would, we were fine and end up with an extra long wait at the airport but we felt better being there.
Highlights
BA Bikes tour
BA bikes offer several tours or just bike rental to explore yourself. This was probably our biggest purchase in Buenos Aires, we took the south circuit tour, a 4 hour tour, for £30. The guides were all very knowledgable and we would highly recommend it as an interesting way to explore the city and cover a lot of ground. Walking tours, however, are much cheaper. One thing to note is our guides, were very upfront about safety in La Boca, read out blog post on La Boca to find out more. The tour takes you through Plaza de Mayo, Puerto Madero, Constanera Sur, Barrio Catalinas, Caminito, Boca Jr Stadium (Estadio Alberto J. Armando), Parque Lezama, Plaza Dorrego San Telmo.
We were actually in Buenos Aires on the lead up to the 2018 G20, which sparked a number of security concerns and protests, for us this meant some parts of the city were partially or completely closed off, including Plaza de Mayo, so our BA Bikes tour was diverted. As this plaza is where you will find Cada Rosada, the presidential palace also known as 'The Pink House' which dominates the plaza alongside the metropolitan cathedral and the national bank.
In the centre of Buenos Aires you'll find, Avenida 9 De Julio, the widest avenue in the world. Let's just say it takes a while to cross. You'll find several famous site along the road including the Obelisk, often used as the sight to celebrate sporting achievements or meetings for demonstrations. Look up and you can't miss the steel portrait of Eva Perón up on either side of one of Buenos Aires tallest buildings; Ministry of Public Works. On the north side she is depicted giving her speech in the very building to wealthy oligarchs, whilst on the south side she is depicted smiling, like on the cover of her autobiography, this is the side which faces one of the poor areas. Want to learn more visit Eva Peron's museum.
San Telmo
San Telmo is known for its market but its important to point out, the bustling market it is widely known for, that lines the streets every Sunday, is different to Mercado San Telmo which you'll find is open everyday. Make time to explore both, in Mercado San Telmo you'll find a great food market and cool artists and illustrators, vintage jewellery and antiques, pick up some unique souvenirs here. The Sunday market lines the street right from Plaza Dorrego almost to Plaza de Mayo, nearly a mile long, and you'll find a stall for nearly everything under the sun, as well as street performers.
Other Neighbourhoods (barrios)
Recoleta
Explore the most affluent area of the city; Recoleta. Wander through and admire the grand architecture, Paris style townhouses, which give Buenos Aires the nickname 'Paris of the South'. Also look out for former palaces as well as boutique shops and cafes. It is quite clearly the most affluent area. The most popular place to visit in the area is actually, Cemetrio de la recoleta; a bit of an odd one really, and it challenges the notion of what a cemetery should feel like. Would you even consider there was ratings for both the world's best and most beautiful cemetery until you find out this is number 1. If you choose to visit, remember where you are, be respectful, its not a 'tourist attraction', however, the cemetery is the resting place for many famous families and it's mausoleums are like a work of art, and a prime example of grand historical Buenos Aires. Also, find gallery's and museums here.
Palmero
Palmero is a trendy area, highlighted by the fact it houses areas such as, Palmero Soho and Palmero Hollywood. It is also the most walkable barrio. Describes as a 'melting pot of culture and coolness'. Take advantage of the cafes, galleries, museums and markets. It's a great area to find more of a variety of restaurants, especially if you're avoiding an Argentinian steak, with a young, fresh and innovative vibe, you'll likely find something more to your taste here. Walk along Charcas Street from Palmero Soho to Recoleta, an area devoid of history to an area oozing with it.
Puerto Madero
Puerto Madero, there's not much to do, so only visit if you've got the time, it will give you a perspective of the inequality in the city and show you the port that led to the further decline of residents in La Boca. Find out more in our 'What you should know before visiting La Boca, Buenos Aires' post coming soon. Visit the gentrified and trendy area, a stark contrast to other areas of the city, now home to many a footballer. There's conservation to protect the old buildings in the dockyard but otherwise it's strikingly modern. Walk across Puente de la Mujer, the bridge of women, an impressive feat of engineering.
Barracas
Explore the up and coming area of Barracas, a historic and industrial barrio, if you've got time its worth a wander, it seems we did a lot of wandering in Buenos Aires, but its free and there's lots to see. Look out for street art, vintage shops, and mosaic walls. Take a street art tour with BA bikes or Graffitti Mundo (£30) to understand its relevance in Buenos Aires. Along with Barracas, find amazing street art in sub barrios of Palmero, Colegiales, Chacarita, Villa Crespo and of course La Boca.
Book ahead
Attend an Opera at Teatro Colón, considered one of the world's best music venues
Head to a Tango show and dinner, where the Argentine Tango was born.
See Boca Juniors at Estadio Alberto J. Armando also known as La Bombonera,
Where to eat
Mercado San Telmo, specifically try Un Dos Crepes. Perks of food market, they're generally cheaper.
Try the sandwiches and cake (banana and pineapple or carrot) from Latino Sandwich
Try the Chocotorte a classic Argentinian desert or Marroc from Los 36 Billares
Flaneur restaurant
Dulce de Leche and Co or La Casa de Leche for you guessed it Dulce de Leche
Heladeria Cadore, Buenos Aires (National Geographic Top 10)
Theres an array of good place if you want a traditional Argentinian steak, however, we'd recommend heading out of Buenos Aires and visiting a ranch for an Argentinian BBQ
Socks and Sandals
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