Ethical and Sustainable Tourism in the Amazon Rainforest
There are plenty of options for exploring the Amazon rainforest including luxury resorts but for a truly unique, ethical and sustainable immersive experience try a homestay. Indigenous people make up less than 5% of the world's population, yet they protect around 80% of the global biodiversity, in one of the most biodiverse places on earth, they are essential. Remember this when you choose where to stay and visit, are you hindering or helping local communities. Tourism is an economic incentive to protect nature, however, it is important this tourism does not cause indigenous people to loose unique traditions and culture. There is a fine line between these intelligent communities becoming a tourist attraction and working in partnership with them, this is why its even more important to do your research and pick an ethical tour operator.
Ecotourism has a big part to play in fighting climate change, especially as many travellers are most impassioned about saving the beauty spots we all like to travel to, and the amazing people we meet along the way are often some of the most at risk through climate change. For the Amazon Rainforest, WWF identified Eco tourism as a potential combatant against deforestation and exploitation in the rainforest. It can provide alternative incomes and much more. Recognised by National Geographic Travel Magazine as one of their ' 50 Tours of a Lifetime'. We opted to do our Amazon Homestay through G Adventures in Ecuador. Which includes a 4 day homestay in the Amazon rainforest, not long enough to fully immerse yourself in the culture, but long enough to get a taste, it was definitely a highlight from that part of our trip. This trip was one of G Adventures first trips and Delphin our homestay host was one of the very first partnerships nearly 30 years ago.
Ecuador isn't the only place to visit the Amazon Rainforest, it's called the lungs of the earth for a reason, it's so vast it spreads most famously into Brazil but also into Columbia, Peru and Bolivia.
Accommodation
The accommodation was a 'rustic jungle lodge' with multiple rooms, of twin occupancy with mosquitos nets and the odd spider as an extra guest. Just don't expect a hot shower, but in the humidity you don't want one! There is no electricity apart from in the main house, you are allowed to plug your phones and cameras in here to charge, but remember your head torch you'll need it! Insect repellent is also a necessity. Before you ask there is no wifi, get to know your group, take a pack of cards, you're in the Amazon Rainforest you don't need wifi.
Day 1
After a trip to the Galapagos island, our journey started in Quito the countries capital. First off, we got a mini bus with the rest our tour group, from our accommodation to the appropriate bus terminal, there is a shop here to buy snacks for the journey. Catch a bus from Quito to Tena, this bus will have lots of sellers hop on and off along the way with fresh fruit and others snacks, there is also one toilet stop make sure you have some change on you. Once you reach Tena you'll have a hot and sweaty pit stop and a last chance to buy snacks before piling into very hot 4x4s to head into the Amazon rainforest to your homestay.
We arrived and were greeted by our host Delphin, he led us to meet his family then he took us on a tour of the homestay. Our G Adventures guide was with us the whole time to help translation between us and Delphin. In true rainforest fashion it started to pour, and when it pours in the rainforest it pours like you've never seen it. We still headed out on a walk to a nearby waterfall viewpoint, but unfortunately we couldn't see a single thing, and we were drenched to the bone. Luckily, due to the heat it wasn't long before our clothes were dry again.
Let's talk about food at the homestay
We don't remember too much about the food it was overshadowed by the chocolate and bug experience, however, here's what we do remember. Before the main meal, like much of the places we visited in South America, soup was served, often served with popcorn. Popcorn was available a lot for snacks and with soup, yes that's a thing, some even add it in the soup. Breakfast was different every day varied between fresh fruit, yoghurt, eggs and pancakes, and freshly made juice and tea. Lunch was vegetarian and dinner was largely freshly caught fish, of course if you are vegetarian or have a dietary requirement they will cater to you. Followed by desert of course.
Day 2
The following morning we took part in an Amazon community welcoming ceremony, the meaning behind it derives from staying safe as you venture out into the rainforest. We were all given headdresses to wear made of plaited leaves, and Delphin went around to each person painting a symbol with traditional natural paint from the rainforest on our faces. These included Pachamama, and the rotation symbol. We were explained the story behind everyones symbols; Pachamama, derives from the fact that historically men were hunter and gatherers and women were in the home, then Pachamama also known as mother earth gave wisdom to a lady to start planting trees, growing and harvesting fruit so that the sole role of men could stop being that of hunting and gathering and for that reason women evolved. The rotation symbol means every person in the world is making paths wherever they go and the rotation says that we have to go back home at some point, and all the things you've learnt along the way, you share with your family and friends. It was all so interesting and definitely an experience you can only get from a homestay.
After the ceremony we got kitted up in wellies and helmets for gorge walking through the trees, rivers and waterfalls. We found ourselves walking up and down the hills, wading through rivers, ducking under and over trees in the water, squeezing through gaps, going behind and under waterfalls and climbing up them, and don't worry we had guides, it was one of the best experiences in the Amazon - and included in the trip for no extra cost.
Delphin took us on a tour of the rainforest, he showed us some traditional Amazonian medicines and the plants these derive from, we learnt about their uses and how he believes they could help modern medicine. One in particular, certain leaves were ground down, boiled in water and drank as a herbal tea to reduce stomach pains. We were also made very aware of poisonous plants, that we shouldn't even touch. We went digging and panning for gold, we found minuscule amounts but Delphin did show us some he'd found in the past. Whilst at the river, we were shown the stone and clay used for traditional amazon make up, including the paint used on our faces in the welcoming ceremony, and gave it a try.
We tried and failed to climb a tree local style, we watched Delphin and another guide reach the top, one of our group got fairly high, the rest of us struggle to get off the ground, the tree was smooth with no grip whatsoever, it was an impressive feat. Delphin also showed us lots of the food they produce nearby and how traditional shelters were are made.
Today, also happened to be one of our groups Birthday's, so she got a traditional Amazon crown, flower garland and gifts including cake. What a place to spend your birthday!
Day 3
One of the days we had the option to go the nearby lagoon or go whitewater rafting. The group split up and some of us headed to the lagoon whilst some of us went white water rafting. Upon recommendation we went white water rafting here rather than in a later stop, Banos. The lagoon is a more tranquil option to white water rafting; it was much larger than expected and on a hot humid day was ideal for cooling down and chilling out. There were basic toilets and a deck with hammocks. Natural rock carved out by the water acted as a water slide into the main deep lagoon. The Lagoon does join the Amazon river, but don't worry it is sectioned off so you don't get swept away. From the decking you can have a peaceful rest after swimming, and maybe even see people fishing in the river.
For white water rafting we'd highly recommend Rios Ecuador, they offer several options of different grades. It will cost you $65-90 and it will be worth every single penny, they include a buffet lunch and photos. You'll start with a quick lesson, and safety guide lines before jumping in the raft. Prepare for exciting rapids, calm pools whilst the rainforest and the animals that lie within surround you from both sides. Take turns sitting on top of the front of the raft as you go through set of rapids and see who can hold on the longest, your guide will probably try do flips and tricks with the raft will you stay in or will everyone fall out? Take a chance to jump in the river and play games on the beach during your lunch break with the guides. It is one of the ultimate places to go white water rafting in the world.
If you opt to go white water rafting you'll be exhausted and probably aching when you get back, I for one was covered in bruises, so take some time to relax in the hammocks at the homestay.
Before dark, Delphin showed us what a traditional Sharman healing ceremony looked like with our friend, nicely volunteered by us two, as she had a cough at the time. Now, Delphin claimed not to be the local sharman himself but I don't think you're meant to tell tourists if you are, and we all thought he probably was but visit for yourself and see what you think. He seemed to know so much and had so many stories surrounding a sharman. The ceremony involved us learning about traditional medicines, prayers and rituals.
After that, the homestay hosts with a willing couple from our group reenacted a traditional Amazon wedding ceremony. Including dress, the equivalent of vows, the equivalent of bridesmaids and best men, it was so interesting and fascinating, the hosts also demonstrated some wedding dances before everyone joined in. These are definitely experience we believe we wouldn't have gotten if we hadn't chosen to do a homestay in the Amazon, it definitely gave us more of a glimpse into the culture. Listening to their ways of life and their culture was so insightful, we have been incredibly fortunate. To remember the past 4 days I asked the host if he could write in my journal about anything he wanted; Dephin wrote about how him and his family are so grateful for visitors, to share the Amazon with sustainably for them, to share the happiness of people like us and how amazing it is that we are all so different but also all so similar.
Day 4
We made chocolate from scratch to see the process and how we took part, here's our post on making chocolate in the Amazon Rainforest, much better and fresher than any chocolate making experience you can buy back in the UK. We had a go at traditional target shooting, with a traditional blowgun weapon, it basically involved blowing into a long tub with a dart in the end, although obviously unlike traditional target shooting our darts weren't coated in poison. Before packing up, saying goodbye to our hosts, and jumping back in cars and heading to our next stop Banos!
Socks and Sandals
Comments