One of the world's most famous hikes, to reach one of the 7 wonders of the world. It is one place that definitely deserves all the 'hype', it certainly isn't overrated and definitely lives up to all expectations and more. Here's our day by day Honest Inca Trail experience with recommendations, tips and tricks. Embrace the sacred magic. If these 3 photos don't tempt you we don't know what will.
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Despite both of us being travellers who like unusual destinations, and to often go off the beaten track, we wanted to do the Classic Inca Trail. The ruins along route and history, hardly made us give it a second thought. As you approach Machu Picchu from the Inti Punku (Sungate) there's just something about reaching it from this angle rather than a bus, maybe its the happiness that you are finally there, for us it was the happiness that we were there and could see it, you'll find out why on our weather post. Many other treks to Machu Picchu actually involve getting the bus, which some people don't realise, find out more on our alternatives to the Inca Trail blog post.
Don't rush it, linger at ruins along the way, take breaks, and detour to optional extra ruins even if it is a few more steps and strain on the knees, you'll probably never do the Inca Trail again, and you'll also never get left behind the main guide and assistant guide are there, one at the front, the other always at the back.
Let's talk permits
As a result of its popularity, in order to preserve the Inca Trail you must get a permit and trek with a licensed trekking company. There are 500 permits per day around 200 of these are for trekkers, the rest are for guides and porters. Book early, as these permits do sell out, at least 6 months in advance is advised However, our travel agent was encouraging us to book as soon as possible and that was about 8 months before, as we were trekking in shoulder season, so this is something to bear in mind. Find out more about when is the best time to hike and weather in Peru on our blog post here. Our tour operator booked our permits for us.
From what we observed some trekkers doing alternatives routes had always intended to do a different route, others wanted to do the Inca Trail but permits had run out, so the alternative was their 2nd option. In saying this, from speaking to them they weren't at all disappointed by the trek its views, history and culture, so if you wanted a permit and can't get one there's nothing to be disappointed about.
Day -3
Let's start from the beginning ish, 3 days before the Inca Trail we arrived in Cusco, fresh off a night bus from Arequipa, where we'd hardly slept. We'd highly recommend not flying straight into Cusco or catching a bus straight from Lima to Cusco, as you'll miss out on so many highlights. So, we cannot stress this enough, take time to visit places in between, if you can. That evening we met our guide at the company headquarters for a briefing, he talked us through the distances, covering each section of the Inca Trail, what to expect, what to pack in our bags and answered any questions. We then we had time to sort out kit hire. You have the option to bring all your own kit or hire any one of the following; sleeping bag, hiking poles and a thin air roll mat. P.s don't worry we had a lot more time factored in Cusco upon our return.
Day -2
Let's talk about altitude
So, the trail is approximately 26 miles, which to some might sound not that much split over 4 days, but it is steep, mainly narrow paths that wind up and down the Andean mountains, and you'll be at altitude the whole time! You also want to make it to Machu Picchu early morning on the 4th day to avoid the crowds. Two days before the Inca Trail, we set off at 3am to the starting point for the trek up Vinicunca (Rainbow Mountain) now, as we pointed our in our blog post A Pot of Gold; Top tips for Vinicunca (Rainbow) Mountain , don't attempt to do this on your 2nd full day in Cusco, unless you have been at altitude prior to Cusco. Otherwise, you will not have allowed yourself enough time for acclimatisation. The same applies for all of the treks to Machu Picchu, if Cusco is your first destination at altitude, spend some time in the city before heading out hiking, or you'll just find it even harder or impossible. We'd been travelling up and down through Ecuador and Peru for well over a month by the time we reached Cusco, so we felt comfortable or as comfortable as you can be as a travellers at that altitude.
We were warned about the altitude at Machu Picchu before even flying out to South America, but what no one told us is Machu Picchu is by no means the highest point you will visit, and certainly not the highest on the Inca Trail. That position falls to Warmiwañusca (Dead Womens Pass), on top of that a large majority of our time in South America was spent at altitude Quito, Cuenca, Arequipa, Chivay, Colca Canyon, Cusco, Ollyantaytambo, Puno and La Paz, to name a few. Only one of which is lower than Machu Picchu itself. So, by the time we got to Machu Pichu, 2430 metres felt like sea level when you'd been at over 4000m for a significant amount of time.
It's probably also worth noting, neither of us did any specific preparation for the trek but we are generally active people who enjoy hiking at home, though we had little experience of hiking at altitude, and did not know how our bodies would react.
Day -1
Bags were packed, and the rest of our luggage was stored in Cusco. We caught a coach to Ollyantaytambo, the gateway to the Inca Trail, so were all ready for the following day. Don't expect to rest too much though, because Ollyantaytambo has ruins to explore. The most popular ruins on the left hand side of the town, you pay to enter these, then on the right there's more, that's where our tour guide took us, and we were the only ones there. Our tour guide also took us to the shop to buy last minute essentials like coca leaves and ponchos if needed. We then had some time to explore the town, grab some cake in a local cafe, check our bags, weigh them again, if there was anything we didn't want we could give it to our g adventures guide to take back to Cusco, which was very handy. Then, we headed to dinner and got an early night before the trek began.
Day 1
Approx 7 miles
5-6 hours (these may vary slightly depending on the campsites your trekking company uses)
Get up, grab breakfast, wish those luck going off to do other treks, and say bye to those heading back for more time in Cusco before getting the train to Machu Picchu. Jump in the bus for 40 minutes to the meeting point. This meeting point is a shelter and area where many tour companies meet before you head to the first checkpoint at km 82. It will be the first time you meet the porters, though not properly as its a bit chaotic. This is where you'll be given the items you hired to add to your duffel bag and hand over to porters to pack into bigger bags for them to carry. You will also be given a bag full of snacks here, something we hadn't realised, if you don't want something see if anyone in your group does, all these snacks must fit in your backpack, bring your own snacks as well, just make sure you have room to add the ones they give you.
Now its time to head to the start, grab your photos at the sign and queue up for the first checkpoint to get your permit checked and stamped, this is also where porters bags will be weighed to check their adhering to regulations. Once you're through head over the Urubamba River bridge and start heading up. At this point horses and mules may pass you, these animals soon divert off as animals aren't allowed to carry gear for the Inca Trail. It's not long before your guide will get you to stop, as the group may have become fairly spread out as you queued to enter the first checkpoint. It is important to add the whole time you can go at your own pace, either the lead guide or assistant guide will always stay at the back so nobody gets left behind, and when you've got a ultra marathon runner in your group, like we did, there's no way you're keeping up!
On the first day, which is known as the 'Inca flat', you'll walk through jungles, surrounded by streams, and the Urubamba river, surrounded by incredible scenery, emerge to beautiful ruins and exposed mountains. The first ruins you will come to are Willkarakay, and you look down over ruins called Llactapata, take a group break here, and listen to your guide tell you all about its history, the guides are a fountain of knowledge and expert on all things Inca Empire.
Before lunch you'll have another group break by some boulders, take a chance to rest, there's a small food stall here, and toilets. We had our lunch break at Hatunchaca, by the river, by this point the weather has let up a bit and we all sat and drank tea by the river bank after lunch, and had a chance to fill up our water if necessary.
We set off again, before reaching campsite at, Wayllambamba. Every evening at dinner, the guide will go round and ask you how much water you need for the following day, so they ensure they boil enough, this is really important as to not get dehydrated!
The first evening after food, we gathered all together on the campsite. All the porters, cooks and guides introduced themselves in Quechan, find out more about what we learnt here. They truly are the unsung hero's of the Inca Trail, so we were grateful, that we got to meet them and talk to them and they weren't just strangers running things in the background, they are such an important part of the trek.
IMPORTANT FACT!
Day 1 is the last chance to turn around and still hopefully make it to Machu Picchu by bus, (a fact that is slightly joked about, but we believe it was genuinely true, although surely trains book up?), all our group made it though, so if you're finding it tough, don't be defeated it doesn't matter what time you reach camp each day, just that you do.
Let's talk toilets
The first day is the only day you'll pass through tiny villages and by tiny villages we mean no more than a handful of houses. So, this is the only day that if you need the toilet whilst trekking you'll find 'toilets', these, however, will largely be squat toilets, at a small fee. The other days its 'bushy bushy' or 'rocky rocky', until you reach Machu Picchu, keep 2 soles aside for the toilets here. Make sure you do not leave any tissue! It was awful to see how many people had done this, hidden from those on trails and moments away from amazing views, such a shame. Also, avoid going near streams or rivers!
Of course at the campsites there's toilet block's, again some of these are squat toilets, we had a funny incident with a llama where it ran out from behind a toilet block and our friend screamed. The toilets will probably smell, and proved almost unbearable for some of our group, but that's usually the case for toilets on campsites anywhere.
Day 2
Approx 7.5 miles
6-7 hours
Wake up at about 5 am. Typically day 2 is deemed the toughest day of the Inca Trail, largely, due to the famed section commonly known as Warmiwañusca (Dead Women's Pass). It is pretty relentless, but you can take as many breaks as you want. Before you get there, leave camp pass through a cloud forest with waterfalls, the first group break will be at Yunkachimpa. Continue through paths that are getting steeper through the forest, emerging to a meadow near the second group stop Llulluchapampa. This will probably be the last time you see your group together until you reach camp. This is because the time it takes to accomplish the rest of the day will vary so much.
So that leads you the long steep incline to the third stop, Warmiwañusca (Dead Womens Pass) at 4200m you are hiking to the highest point of the Inca trail. Admire the valley and once it comes into view see the shape of point it is named after. It's one of the hikes where you think you're nearly at the top but then more steps come into view. It's the part most people dread, in actual fact the way down is steeper, harder for some and in the rain very slippy. We just wouldn't recommend racing your friend the last 50-100 metres to the top! Racing at 4200m is no joke. If some of your group are just behind you stay and cheer them on, its nice for some of your group to meet at the top and celebrate together, before continuing yet again at your own pace.
Old Incan stone steps get very slippy when wet, it's like walking on ice, so considering the rain had been pretty continuous thus far, we might as well have slid down, a fair few slips occurred in our group, thankfully nothing bad. The rain sped some of us up and slowed some of us down, and the knees definitely took a battering, its a long descent. Most people reach camp at Paqaymayo by early to mid afternoon, leaving plenty time to relax and in our case dry off and warm up. This also allows for you to have a nap if needed, lots of snacks, and meals as well as a decent nights sleep, usually by 8/9pm everyone went to their tents to rest after a strenuous day.
Let's talk about food
Our whole trek group would agree that the food on the Inca Trail went above and beyond all expectations, honestly we can't praise it enough, we'd be interested to know if other tour companies food is just as good as G Adventures was. After our trip to Rainbow Mountain we didn't have great expectations of the food as the food on this trip wasn't too great.
Food is all included in price even the extra snack bag you're given on day 1. We had a designated dining tent, of course sent up by the porters before we had even arrived to the camp site. We have only ever eaten off our laps when camping so this was luxury. If you have dietary requirements or aren't feeling to great, no need to worry they will cater for you.
The snack bag was made up of 2 pieces of fruit, juice, crackers, biscuits and bars. On day 1 there is a chance to buy snacks, and save those in your bag, we also talk more about your own snacks on our kit blog.
There will be endless cups of tea, and snacks when you arrive at camp and after dinner. There's various flavours of tea to choose from, snacks usually consisted of popcorn or crackers or what we believe to be corn cake, it tasted like a mixture of cake and bread, with the options of peanut butter, jam, honey or butter.
For breakfast, it was a good balance between enough to fuel you and not too much that it could effect any altitude sickness anyone might be experiencing. Porridge, cooked breakfast and even pancakes with dulce de leche art on were served to us, we couldn't believe it! Apart from on the final day, as you depart camp so early, breakfast is just a few light snacks, no warm food, so the porters can get going. Don't worry if you don't like something there's always someone who will finish it off or even swap with you, porridge for pancakes anyone?
Lunch and Tea always consisted of a, 3 course meal, including a hearty soup, a freshly cooked hot main meal, sometimes a buffet style main course, and even dessert. There's no chance you will be left hungry! On the evening of day 2 we were even presented with a cake, would you believe it, how did they cook that on a camping stove, how did the eggs not break, we have no idea, magic? Also, expect lots of quinoa, it's an Andean plant after all.
Let's talk about showers
There's no freshening up when it comes to the Inca Trail. So, it's day 2 you've been trekking for 2 days and you're probably thinking you'd want a shower by this point, well. Now, 1 or 2 of the campsites had a shower, and we'd pretty much got used to cold showers in the Amazon Rainforest and other locations, so they don't bother us too much (apart from one in the Galapagos but that's a story from another day) but ice melt running off the mountain would be something else, it really wasn't that warm and they were next to smelly toilets. Only one person from our group took a shower on the final day so they looked nicer for Machu Picchu. No one else even uttered the words shower, we probably all equally smelt, and hardly anyone took a towel. In staying that we'd probably have smelt a lot worse had it been hotter, so maybe the rain helped, at least a little bit. You also get a warm bowl of water every morning and evening, this will feel amazing on a cold morning and after a days hiking. Find out more about this here. Other than that embrace the dirt, when else will no one judge you for not taking a shower after exercising for 4 days.
Day 3
Approx 10 miles
9 hours
Wake up at the crack of dawn to a great view of the valley. By this point you're legs might be aching, but the hardest part for most is done, you're nearly there. It's the penultimate day, and apart from the final morning, it is the most picturesque, with the most ruins on route. That's not to say day 1 or 2 didn't have incredible views but day 3 it just one after another after another. You might notice on day 3, the path is a bit different, that is because you've entered part of the Royal Inca Trail, this was built by the original Inca's. It appears they've almost tried to make it flat, rather than structured steps like much of the restored parts of the trail.
The day starts with a steep ascent but no where near as steep as Warmiwañusca (Dead Womens Pass), reach the first pass at Runquraqay (3950m). There are 3 different interpretations of which part of the Inca Trail is nicknamed the 'Gringo Killer', this section is 1 of them, a series of steep switch backs, and sections of steps that from below look like you can see the top, but you'll soon see over and realise there's yet another set of stairs, for some of us this was the hardest part. I don't know exactly why, whether it was because our legs were tired, who knows. These steps will eventually lead you to the pass, and you'll be thankful to reach it. On a clear day look up to the snow capped Cordillera Vilcabamba, it's safe to say we did not have a clear day. This is where you'll take the first group break, there's lots to learn about here, so its a fairly long break, wait for crowds to disperse and you'll get a clear view of one of the best vistas so far.
Hike through the cloud forest to the second pass - Abra Runkurakay, walking through original Incan constructions, once again on a clear day you'll get great view of the Urabamba Valley.
Here comes the second interpretation of the 'Gringo Killer' the 1000+ steep step descent. After the descent from Dead Womens Pass the day before this felt like nothing, plus the rain had started to let up slightly, little did we know the rain that was to still come. You are constantly surrounded by lush greenery, its amazing the landscapes they were able navigate and build such structures on.
Next up, there is a fork in the trail where you can take an optional detour to Sayacmarca ruins. This translates to inaccessible town, and how true that is and the reason its optional because you have to ascend once again, if your knees can handle it, its absolutely worth it and one of the most intact ruins you can get up close to! The steps up are a bit stretcherous, and passing anyone coming down is only possible at certain points, especially as there is no railing to protect you from falling. The route down to camp is then quicker but a lot steeper, than if you hadn't have taken the detour, you will meet the rest of your group for lunch, don't worry they'll wait for you.
Reach the next highest point at 3700m before descending slightly to Phuyupatamarca (3650m) translated to 'the town above the clouds'. Other groups will stay and camp here, we continued, to Inti Pati for another amazing view of the valley down to the river, small houses perched on the side, and spectucular ruins behind us. What was great about this section was our group weren't too spread apart, it was great to hike as a whole group and experience these views together, as we watched the clouds roll in and out, adding to the wonder. Then it was another 1.5 hours to camp, with an optional detour to Wiñay Wayna ruins, "forever young" at 2650m, this time the detour was an easy extra 5 minute path to the last ruins before day 4, and possibly the best of the whole trail so far, although we keep saying that don't we.
Now, we can't quite remember where this part slots in, possibly even day 1, but the easiest part of the Inca Trail was by far a relatively flat walk through ancient carved tunnels and along the cliff side, which drops off into the clouds. Comparative to the rest of the trail this part felt like an absolute breeze and you'll find yourself flying! It's here we also had the best chance of spotting some unique wildlife. For us, it started to pour once again, possibly the heaviest of the whole trail, we reached a stop where the porters had set up the dining tent and we sat down for food, we all huddled in as any touching of the sides caused the tent to leak, we don't remember this being an overnight camp, but we don't remember whether it was definitely lunch. However, we thought we would still talk about it here to show there is actually an easy part!
Day 4
Approx 4 miles
1.5-2 hours
Wake up before the crack of dawn at around 3:30am, it will be pitch black. The reason for such an early start is to get in the queue for the check point, and beat the hoards of people arriving to Machu Picchu by bus, if you do the Inca Trail you'll be the first groups of people there. With hiking poles in your hand, you won't be able to hold a torch, in the dark and on uneven steps, a heard torch is definitely necessary. Not all our group had one, so those of us who did, were lighting them up and shouting instructions, it added to the hilarity quite a bit.
As we headed closer to Machu Picchu, it was a misty morning and the rain just wouldn't let up, we were praying we would be able to see it, but before you get there you have to complete the last section of the trail. Ascend 50 near vertical steps, these steps are the 3rd interpretation of the 'Gringo Killer' nickname, and the part which our guide used the nickname for. Depending on who you speak to you might also here them being called Monkey Steps, this made a lot of sense, when you found yourself using your hands and knees to help you up, some of the steps, were pretty sure were higher than our knees.
As sun starts to rise you will reach Inti Punku (The Sungate), this can be your first glimpse of Machu Picchu, though not for us, we could barely see a couple metres in front of us, due to the cloud, if anything we found this quite funny and got some ironic photos of the 'view' and sign and continued on, knowing if this be the case at Machu Picchu we wouldn't be laughing. Only those doing the Inca Trail will enter through Inti Punku. This is also the point if you know anyone getting the train, whether they completed Lares or are joining from Cusco, you may get a chance to meet them here, though they'll undoubtedly look a lot fresher than you will!
After this starts a gentle descent, because guess what's up next! It's about the journey not about the destination, well this time it sorta is, the Inca trail is incredible in itself but it wouldn't have anywhere near as the popularity and significance if it wasn't for one of the 7 wonders of the world, Machu Picchu itself. So, as we continued, we had everything crossed that the cloud would have cleared and we could see it. Well, luck was on our side, because as we got there, the sun broke through and clouds had drifted away and there it was, in all its glory, you should have seen just how happy our group was, looking at each other in disbelief, just smiling, saying 'look'! Truly magical!
First up photos, there are several spots for photos the guides know the best ones. Sadly, no classic and iconic jumping photos for us at Machu Picchu, as jumping near the ruins isn't allowed. Clouds start to drift in and out again as we got our photos, but we were happy that we'd even get to see it at all, with the amount of rain we got. Then unexpectedly the sun came out and the clouds parted completely.
Our guide gave us a tour and then sat us down, to tell us all about Machu Picchu, by this point it was so warm, as Machu Pichu was bathed in sunshine. At one point there was no cloud in sight, something we wouldn't have believed if you'd told us at the Inti Punku. We all rapidly started to delayer, sun cream up and sunglasses out, and soaked it all in.
It was interesting to see what looked like painstaking restoration work, but so worth it to keep this wonder preserved. As you'd expect they're places you can't walk, things you can't touch or sit on and things you can't do in order to further protect it from human erosion, you also can't eat, it's a sacred site, respect it. As we got up and started exploring again, we made it most of the way round before raincoats started to come back out and intermittent drizzle started.
A fair warning if you stamp your passport at the entrance / exit gate with the Machu Picchu Stamp it will take up a fair bit of room. By the time we'd got the bus down to Aguas Caliente and we were walking to meet the rest of our group and guides who'd started to gather in a local restaurant, it had started to pour. Once again, we were drenched.
Let's talk about Huayna Picchu
A quick note on Huayna Picchu, translating from Quechuan to Young Peak, is a popular hike, yet still many don't know about it, it offers a completely different perspective of Machu Picchu, it is however, challenging. Now, we believe you need an extra permit and some companies will offer it as an extra add on. At the time G Adventures deemed it unsafe, for reasons we are unaware of, maybe its something they'll add in future, especially as g adventures had only added Rainbow Mountain the year we trekked it, for safety reason, so you never know!
Let's talk about the journey back down
The queue for the bus is long so if you have a meeting point time and a train you have to make, bear in mind what time you need to get in the queue. If you're starving, and had run out of snacks like us, there's a shop for snacks near the toilet stop at the entrance/exit, the giant cookies the size of your head, hit just the right spot. The bus journey down is a bit hair raising, as you can imagine its steep, and you meet coaches driving back up to collect yet more people, you could walk back if your knees can bear it!
Grab a bite to eat in one of the restaurants back in Aguas Caliente, you can stay the night here or head straight back to Cusco. The train journey back is one of the most scenic in the world as you journey through the Sacred Valley of the Incas, so settle in and enjoy the ride. for just over 3 hours. Try not to fall asleep or get someone to prod you awake if the rain subsides to reveal the view.
From the start sign onwards you choose a team name to cheer and 'oh my knees' became the catch phrase of the trip, our guide introduced it as an alternative to 'cheese' for photos. It was then tradition for the rest of our travels, these are the things you remember, not the difficulty!
When you arrive back in Cusco take some time to rest, and possibly get a massage, check out our city guide for Cusco here.
Other Blog Inca Trail Blog Posts by Socks and Sandals;
Tupananchikkama
Socks and Sandals
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